What is the best way to get to Aix En Provence from Marseilles? My husband and I will be taking our first Med cruise together this October to celebrate our first anniversary, and we would really like to get out into the Provencal countryside when we stop in Marseilles. Any suggestions for how to get out there and have a truly Provencal experience would be greatly appreciated!!

We were there a couple of years ago on a cruise and teamed up with another couple on the cruise. When we got off the ship we negotiated with one of the many drivers ( one who spoke some english ) there for an all day drive in his car ( a Mercedes no less ). He had a map from which we picked several places we wanted to visit,including Aux in Provance, and took some suggestions from him.
It turned out to be a great 8 or so hours of travel to out of the way places in france for about 150 euros per couple.

Thank you for the quick response Ray! Have you heard of anyone taking a bus or a train to Aix? We would actually like to go a route that will cost us a little less money... We're paying big bucks for some other excursions, and wanted to go easy on the pocketbook for this stop. Plus - both sets of our parents will be on this trip with us (it's their 30th anniversaries) so I doubt we could find a car big enough for all of us.

Did this on a cruise a few years ago...went to the main railway station and caught a train to Aix en Provence....it was very easy then and no problem with trains there & back. There are two types of train ...the regional train that gets you to the town centre ...or the TGV a fast train service but the station is just outside the town.
If you consider using the train....make sure you are going to be ok catching one as I've heard that the railway lines in this area are being upgraded and there is major engineering works and some trains are being replaced with buses in 2007.Maybe other members can give you more up to date information.

The other cheaper option is to go to the bus station and catch a bus to Aix and returns should cost about 10 euros.The bus station is a bit of a way from the port so it may be better to hire a taxi to go there......regards jack

We were in Aix in June & we had a rental car& drove to Marseilles in less than 1 Hour, you could rent a van which would be better for visiting around Aix & the area .& as the previous poster said trains are not to reliable especially as you have to get back to the ship. In Marseilles they have two little Train/trams that take you around the city & to the Notre Dame & drop you off & pick you up in one hour.

Train connections are cheap and plentiful between Marseille and Aix so that is an easy way to make the trip. However, you will need to use the shuttle (or a taxi) to get from the ship into town (Marseille) and to the train station. Personally, we prefer to rent a car because it gives us more flexibility and the ability to stop at some smaller villages. However, since this is your first trip you might not fee comfortable driving in France.

Hank

Hi Hank-
How are you?
At our stop in Marseille, we want to go to the Luberon Villages area (some vineyards, etc.)and we don't want to rent a car. Just to do it and see some countryside (and to gain exp. for the train from Livorno to Florence later), we were going to take the train to Aix, walk around there for an hr. or so, then take a private tour of some Luberon areas that will drop us back at our ship. but, based on your comment of having to taxi to the station just tgo get started, should we just take the van tour right from the dock all day? what do you think?
Mike

Ahhhh the Luberon. Do I detect a Peter Mayle fan? We actually had a French gentleman tell us they hated that author in the Luberon because they preferred to keep the region a secret from the world. My thinking is that if you plan on taking a tour from Aix, it sure would be more convenient to just get the tour from Marseille assuming you can get a tour at a reasonable cost. As to getting to the Marseille train station keep in mind that you could use the ships shuttle into Marseille instead of a taxi, but most of the cruise lines charge $5 per person (one-way) for the shuttles and you still have to walk a few blocks to get to the station. I should add that Marseille is really not a bad place, in fact, the section adjacent to the old port (where the shuttles usually drop passengers) is pretty nice with plenty of cafes and the "water views."

By the way, Marseille is a "cake walk" compared to getting to the train station in Livorno

Hank

Hi Hank (intimate connoisseur)!
Had any good wine lately? My wife has us stuck on Markham Merlot!?
I'm surprised a little by comment to take the tour (8 to 9 hrs.?) from Marseille. When we talked last, your recommended the train to Aix. My real question was whether the train might go thru some prettier/more interesting areas than a tour driver? then, we could walk around old Aix for an hour, then take a 1/2 day tour (4 to 5 hr.s?) of the Luberon, dropping us back at ship in Marseille. I'll check the pricing and availability of full vs. 1/2 day tours.
As far as the train in Livorno, we have yours and others advice on getting to that. Will walk around Florence and try to "drop into" Pisa for awhile on the way back. a bigger concern for us is it's a Monday!? Academia and Uffizi closed!? (replace with a wine shop someone mentioned -- Toscana Mia???)
We're just going to take it easy in Mallorca (Smeralda?) and St. Tropez.(wine and cheese?)
Plan to take the train from Monte Carlo to Nice with a stop in Eze.
Plan to take a motor boat from Portofino to Santa Frutoso?(view, wine and cheese?)
Take it easy in Olbia?(wine and cheese?)
Try to take the Circumvesuviana from Sorrento to Pompeii, hitting Herculaneum on the way back?
Then, an easy day in Amalfi and Ravello?
Then two days in Rome at end. Have to do Vatican on Sat. and old Rome on Sunday?
Whaddya think?

Markham Merlot? Geez, you wife has pretty good (and expensive taste). We just finished dinner which we enjoyed with wine out of a box (am serious). We keep some Black Box Chard in the fridge since its Ok when you only want a glass and it stores quite well since no oxygen gets in the bag. So you see, we are kind of low class folks. Getting back to the tour thing, I only recommended taking a tour from Marseille since you seem to have decided to take a tour from Aix. Given the hassle of getting into town (Marseille), waiting for the next train, than going to Aix it just seems easier to have the same tour folks pick you up at the ship if the cost is reasonable. If you are doing a private tour (I thought this was your thinking) than the time is not an issue since you have full control over the itinerary. We have not been on that train line in over 20 years, so I have no memory of the views. But, if you have a car (be it a rental or a tour) there are options depending on your guide. If they stick to the Autoroute than the view is like a view from an interstate, but they also can deviate from the faster Autoroute and than you can see more of the quiet countryside. The problem with all of this is that you do have limited time, so you ultimately have to make choices. Your original plan to take the train is fine, but you will lose a good hour just getting from ship to train station + waiting time for the next train. As to Mondays in Florence or anywhere else, its a bummer for those that put a high value on visiting museums. However, we really like Florence and would be happy just walking the streets, strolling along the river, eating gelato, having a nice lunch, enjoying the architecture, etc. Have never been to that wine shop, but than again, we would enjoy any wine shop if it has tastings.

I love all your "wine and cheese" days. Its our style too although we tend to spend more time sitting in outdoor cafes, sipping wine or beer, and people watching. Mallorca is a place we normally consider a "beach day." We are very curious to hear about S Fruttoso since we have never been to that cliffside abbey. When we stayed in the area (at S Margherita) we had a rental can and I do not believe there are any public roads up to that church. As to Sorrento, keep in mind that Herculanuem is on the Naples side of Pompeii. Last year while we were staying in Praiano (about 5 miles East of Positano) I took my wife to both Pompeii and Herculanium on Mothers Day (she loves ruins cause they remind her of her hubby). Doing both ruins in one day is a lot of ruins, but its fun (remember, you can buy a combination ticket for both ruins that saves you a few Euros). Your plans sound absolutely wonderful and have us talking about our own plans (even we get selfish). Our plans will probably have us in Italy in May and October of next year and we are trying to plan some driving itineraries. At this point we are intrigued by the region called Puglia since we have never spent more than a few hours in that region (were once in Brindisi). So far, we have found that the region is not even mentioned in most tour books, and we are thinking that might make it an interesting region. But, you now have us thinking we might want to revisit the Portofino and Cinque Terre area..... what a dilemma. Such a wonderful country with so many neat places.

Hank

I'd like to get back to Travelbug27 on the Aix trip. Just curious what cruise line you are on. We cruised on HAL in June (our first Med cruise) and also stopped in Marseille. The arrival was around 8AM and the departure late at 11PM. There was a shuttle to Vieux Port (in Marseille) but if you want to take the train you have to take a cab, bus or metro from there. The metro is nice, easy and 2 or 3 stops. But due to the shuttle schedule (make sure you check it) and the charge of $5 per person (there are three of us) we found a cab that was willing to take us from the port to the train station for about 20 US$ in Euros. On HAL the last shuttle back to the ship was 4:30 which I couldn't understand since our departure time wasn't until 11P, so another thing to watch. Have fun.

Hi Hank-
Yeah, my wife has decided in our old age that she's "only going to drink good wine". Of course, since she found a wine she likes, that limits the wines we "try". The Markham is $14.40 per bottle here. Our friends use Barefoot Merlot as their "house wine" at $4.99. I'll look for the Black Box Chard. I'm trusting my wife will be more adventuremsome in Spain, France and Italy!
It seems the guides want to charge the same for 1/2 day vs. a full day on the tour from Marseille. So, we'll keep checking; but, it may make sense to just start from the Ship.
A friend of ours said there is a statue of a Padre "in the water" at San Fruttoso that we must see. Hope to do it on the motorboat to Santa Margherita? I'll let you know as I find out more.
In re Herculaneum; if going on train from Sorrento, it may make more sense to go there first and then Pompei back to Sorrento? The train schedule I've looked at only shows Sorrento, Pompei, Napoli? There must be a stop at Herc.!?

Mike

Yes, there is a stop for Herculanium and its called Ercolano. The Circumvesuviania runs both express and local trains (on the same line) and I am not sure if the express stops at Ercolano so you need to check this out when you get to the station (or perhaps somebody will respond here). Doing Herculanium and Pompeii in a day is a physical effort (especially if its hot) and it does involve a lot of time on your feet. Although I would agree that logistically it makes sense to go to Herculanium first (cause its the furthest from your port) my concern would be you might get worn out before you even "got your feet wet" at Pompeii. Keep in mind that Pompeii is really an extensive area and you can easily walk a few miles if you want to knock yourselves out. We did both ruins in a day last year, but we had already been to Pompeii on previous visits and we did not have to be concerned about rushing back to a cruise ship. I just consulted with my boss (the wife) and she thinks that Pompeii is "The Place" although she also enjoyed Herculanium. So, if you have any doubts about your energy level you might want to go to Pompeii first and than see if you still have the strength to do Herculanium. As to the tickets, I believe its now 11 Euros for entrance to either ruin or 20 Euros for a combination ticket, so its really not a big deal to buy the single ticket if you are not sure you want to both in the day. As to the good wine, I have worked hard to train my wife to like cheap wine (with moderate success). The Black Box wines are pretty cheap (about $20 for the equivilent of 4 bottles) but the Chard, Cab, and Merlot are OK (not near the quality of Markham. However, we did not like the Black Box Shiraz at all!

Hank

Hi Hank-
I hope you are well.
sorry for the length of time it took to reply; but, we've been trying you suggestion of box wine in the fridge and, while decent, it's just too darn accessible! I think we'll drink less if wew have to open a bottle instead!? Interestingly enough we looked for the Black Box wine at Beverages and More. sure enough, they had many more box types than we ever knew and the spaces for Black Box chard. and merlot were empty. then we checked and the space for Markham merlot was empty also. The clerk said that's because Markham is excellent, so, Black Box being empty....it MUST be too!? We'll check again. It looks like the four of us are going to end up taking a private car tour of the Luberon for 625E. I know it's a lot; but, the ship tours are anywhere from $480 to $680 for buses for the day in Provence (and no winery stops!) and a car rental for a full size (which they say is a VW Passat and I'm 6'6" & 295lbs.!)4 dr. with ins., tax, gas, etc. looks like it'd be about $300 for the day and we'd be worrying about driving, getting lost, etc.
We'll take the train to Florence/Pisa and to Pompei/Herculaneum and save $ vs. tours there.
What do you think?
Regards,
Mike

We'll be cruising on RCCL, leaving out of Barcelona on the Voyager on October 13th. Marseille is our last stop. The ship docks at 7am and leaves at 5pm, so we don't have too much time. To come clean, I'm a big Peter Mayle fan, and I’ve wanted to visit Provence since I read ‘A Year in Provence’ in high school French class. I figure this is my best chance to see Provence, so I’d like to take it!

Can everyone agree that it might be better to go by bus since the trains can be unreliable? If so, should we just take a taxi from the port to the bus station, or take the shuttle to the old port, then a taxi? Does anyone have any tips for what to do once we get there?

Thanks to everyone for all of your help! I've enjoyed all the wine talk My husband and I are hosting a wine tasting party in a few weeks and planning a trip to Napa this fall, so I have wine on the brain even more than usual right now!

Hi Travelbug-
Your wine party sounds like fun. Are you going to be in Napa for the "crushing" in early October? My wife and I and another couple are going to Napa 11/8- 11/10. Please let us know if you find any good tasting spots!
In re Peter Mayle, we reaad A Year in Provence many years ago and then A Good Year f few years ago. Rick Steve's recommend the first one, as well as Tonjours Provence, which I'm reading now. We aren't going on our cruise until '08. Please let us know what you end up doing. We were going to take the train or bus to Aix; but, decided other than to walk around there for an hr. or so, there was too many other places we wanted to see. The ship's tour is also limiting. So, we're thinking of all splitting an 8 hr. tour from 9 to 5 (we're in port 8 to 6) hitting many villages in the Luberon, lunch and one ( or two?) vineyards. Not cheap; but,. we'll have to save $ elsewhere on the cruise, as we really want to SEE this area.
Have fun!
Mike

Regarding the French trains vs buses, based on our 35+ years of international travel I think the French railroad (called SNCF) is quite reliable. Yes, they do have ocassional strikes, but they are almost always announced in advance. Of course there is nothing wrong with buses, but generally one would do best in just using whatever works for your schedule. As for us, most of the time we are in Europe we simply rent a car, but I understand many have issues with driving their own car. I think I might have mentioned previously that they hate Peter Mayle in Provence because he made the place to darn famous. But, keep in mind that Provence is a large region and the best way to truly see the place is by using a car be it self drive or operated by a local tour guide.

Getting back to the really important topic (WINE), keep in mind that the Black Box wines are drinkable, but nothing real special but they sure are convenient when you just want a glass (or two or three). Mike, your plans sure look like good fun and you will have a great time. It costs a lot of money to get over to Europe, so it makes sense to spend a few extra dollars to make the most out of your trip. If you do go to both Pompeii and Herculanium on the same day you will certainly be "ruined."

Hank

Does anyone know anything about Rendez-vous Provence tours.We are going there in a few weeks and are thinking about using them.Also where to go? Arles, Aix,Les Baux??? Thanks

Louiekatz - I've seen Olivier with www.rendez-vous-provence.com and Catherine D'Antonio with www.provence-travel.com recommended on this and other boards. Also, Rick Steve recommends Emilie Lecot with www.provence-reservation.com. I've had good response from all; although, we haven't decided exactlt where we wamt to go yet. Good luck!

Hank- We went to BevMo yesterday and they had one box of Black Box Chardonnay. Someone is buying it out as soon as it gets there!? It's pretty good. We like Kendall Jackson Chardonnay better; but, the price of Black Box is better!
Do you know if the train from Sorrento to Pompei Scavi will also stop at Hercalaneum?
regards,
Mike

We also like the Kendall Jackson wine. Its interesting to see it on the wine list of most RCI ships for around $40 (doing this from memory so my price might be a bit off) which is somewhat overpriced (guess that's an understatement). The trains that run from Sorrento to Pompeii and than continue on to Naples do also stop at Ercolono (the stop for Herculanium). I am not 100% postive if all those trains go through to Naples which is why I mentioned that qualification. If you are planning to do both Pompeii and Herculanium, keep in mind that you can buy a combination ticket at either site (includes both admissions) and save a few Euros.

Hank